Navigation on the St. Lawrence - Quebec Yachting

Bonaventure.Photo credit: Pierre Lefebvre.

À l’automne 2018, Quebec Yachting a assisté à la formation Navigation sur le Saint-Laurent d’une durée de 12 heures donnée par Pierre Lefebvre à l’École de navigation de la Société de sauvetage.

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Back in time

-Can our 23-foot sailboat go to Quebec?

- Your boat, yes.You, I don't know.

This is one of the first exchanges between Pierre Lefebvre and his coastal navigation teacher in 1987.Several years later, he returned from a seven-year trip around the Atlantic.

The mist in Port-au-Persil.Photo credit: Pierre Lefebvre.

Navigation that is not easy

Navigation on the St. Lawrence is considered to be one of the most difficult in the interior waters in the world.This can be long and sometimes restless, often followed by moments of almost mystical calm.However, you have to learn to play with the currents and tides that are present from Lac Saint-Pierre, deviate from cargoes and monitor the weather that can change quickly.

"Going to the islands of Madeleine and returning to the Montreal region is a good school before crossing the Atlantic or going to the Bahamas.»»

Here is the navigation corner on moonstone II.Photo credit: Pierre Lefebvre.

Before leaving

- You must know your fuel consumption well since you will have to use your engine a lot.On a sailboat, you will descend the current (go), but go up to the engine (return).Plan to fill a fuel can in reserve and possibly have the necessary equipment to make at least one oil change.With its low draft, a motor boat can stock up throughout the road.However, you will need to use caution to access certain places at low tide.

- You will find several marinas and various services to Quebec.Thereafter, they will be more and more spaced, but still accessible.

-In case of an emergency, here is a list of essential tools: screwdriver, pliers, tongs, hammer, English keys, hexagonal keys, multimeter.On a sailboat, add small lifts and a necessary sail repair.

- Always have two anchors: one main and one in reserve.The funds on the St. Lawrence are variable: clay, vase, herbiers or rock.

- After Quebec, plan a minimum of 75 m (200 ft) of anchorage, 75 m (200 ft) of cable and 50 m (150 ft) of chain.

- The appendix is not necessary, but it can be useful for exploring the surroundings or entertaining children.

- Your navigation equipment should ideally understand: a fixed VHF radio, a fixed GPS, a loch, a echoler, a radar reflector, four moorings of a minimum of the length of the boat (two on each side), an electrical extension.

Here is a list of items which, although not essential, will improve your comfort and your safety: an automatic driver, a portable GPS (useful after the Isle-aux-Coudres) and a portable VHF radio, outdoor speakers, aanemometer, radar and binoculars.

The tide atlas is an essential!On the sailboats, the mainsail should ideally have two risks.The Genoese on a reel must be tightly rolled and have several died laps on the reel bump.You will see very few spinnakers after Quebec.

It is best to wear safety harnesses.Photo credit: Pierre Lefebvre.

- For safety, it is best to wear safety harnesses and install lifestyles during night navigation, in large weather and cold water.You have a dog?Tie it to the boat.The nets are not beautiful, but safe with children or a pet.

Mousse near the net.Photo credit: Pierre Lefebvre.

– Before leaving le matin, écoutez la météo en continu sur les voies WX 1, 2, 3 et regardez ou écoutez les avis aux navigateurs sur la radio maritime continue (voies 24, 26, 83, 87, WX8, WX9 selon la région).At www.Notmar.GC.That, you can subscribe to updates to marine cards.

-For your peace of mind, transmit a road plan to the Coastal Guard and update it.Do not forget to close it when you arrive.

- Know where the cargo ships are located according to your navigation area (track 9 or other) and keep a distance of 50 m.A little trick: if you see the wheelhouse, the drawbacker sees you.

- You must have paper cards up to date for places you will sail, this is the law.Regarding electronic cards, keep them up to date.These are useful and easy to use.On the other hand, you will not be able to have access to it in the event of an electricity failure.

- The clothes will be variable according to your destination.Provide summer cloth and hot cloth: thrillers, windbreak, waxes, gloves, mittens, tuques and boots.Polar cover could be useful in the cockpit to watch in the moonlight.

- To save time, make the grocery store before your departure.On the other hand, you will have no supply problem throughout your journey.Provide snacks, powdered milk or which can be kept without refrigeration and Mason jars.

Moonstone II.Photo credit: Pierre Lefebvre.

Navigation

In the sailboat: average speed 4 to 5 knots.

By engine boat: average speed 10 to 12 knots after Isle-aux-Coudres.

Your final destination will depend on the time you have.Plan 1/3 of time to go, 1/3 for the return and the last 1/3 will serve as a buffer to visit, wait for a favorable weather or simply enjoy the landscape.

If you are in a couple, you can plan alternately, a day at the helm and a day of maneuvers.Be realistic in your purpose to be achieved, avoid appointments and the obligation to hurry upon return.Don't forget to update your logbook.This can serve you on return.Perform your planning according to the tides, the weather and the mood of your crew.Above all, do not be embarrassed to question the locals, they know their region as the bottom of their pocket!

The different stages can be long, sometimes between 10 and 12 hours for a sailboat.You will therefore have to provide quick meals in navigation.It is also preferable to provide a plan B for each step.Intermediate stops?Back to the starting point?Depending on the tides, plan your departures and arrivals and know how to use the currents to your advantage.Notify the Marina on arrival with VHF radio (at 68 or 71) or with your mobile phone ... and above all check their hours of service.

From Montreal to Richelieu's rapids

The river current is variable depending on the tides after Lake Saint-Pierre.These are not often at the zero of the cards.The laborer (difference between the high tide and the low tide) begins in Trois-Rivières.This section is conducive to fairground moorings.You can approach the bank and throw anchor.It is best to move away from the seaway to avoid waves.The driving boats can be numerous, especially the weekend.The nights are calm.

From Montreal to Sorel

There are two channels.The first is a commercial channel where the current is stronger.It is however a quick and direct journey to go.The second is a channel for small boats.The current is lower there.The journey is longer, but faster when returning.

Even if several marinas offer excellent service, why not take advantage of the calm of the region to get sheltered from one of the islands?Above all, the Sorel islands should not be missed which offer a decor as beautiful as that of Mille-Îles.

From Sorel to the Régids du Richelieu

From Lac Saint-Pierre, this is the beginning of long navigations.The current is low and there is clapot when the wind blows from the northeast.You must follow the channel.If you sail at night, watch out for buoys and headlights in Yamachiche, these can be confusing.Some places are more difficult to join, such as the Nautical Club of the Beaten in Nicolet, where there is not much water.

In Trois-Rivières, the currents are stronger and vary with the tides, particularly at the mouth of Saint-Maurice and Cap-de-la-Madeleine.

Batiscan.Photo credit: Pierre Lefebvre.

The marinas of Batiscan, Deschaillons and Portneuf offer the best places to wait for the tide overthrow to the Ricelieu's rapids.The idyllic anchorage at the entrance to the Batiscan river offers security protection at all times, regardless of the weather.

Sentinel on cable.Photo credit: Pierre Lefebvre.

Rapids from Richelieu in Saguenay or Rivière-du-Loup

From this moment, you must plan your navigation according to the tides, since it is the beginning of the overturns of tidal tidal shoes. Navigation de nuit est possible et même probable pour les voiliers, car suivre les bouées est plus facile et plus sécuritaire.Marinas are more distant from each other.During moorings, pay attention to the laborer which can reach six meters, the current can be strong and it changes direction at the spill of tide.You should provide a sentry to prevent the cable from taking place in the keel of the sailboats.

At the Riquelieu's rapids, you should be careful because the channel is only 250 m wide and there is almost no water on the sides.Stay in the middle.Beware of the fire of Richelieu Island, it is strong and deceptive.Change your alignment to the Q-73 buoy.If a cargo is coming up, let the road.

From Quebec to Cap-à-l'Aigle, this is the longest stage.To shorten it, you can start from an anchorage near the Pont de l'Île d'Orléans, Pointe Argentenay, on the south side of the island or the Marinas of Saint-Laurent-de-l'île d'Orléansand Saint-Michel.

The north shore is the favorite of Pierre Lefebvre.It is done in a single step.The landscapes of the Charlevoix region are grandiose.

You can do an anchorage on the Isle-aux-Coudres battures, but you cannot visit it without leaving the boat to anchor.It is also the beginning of the Saguenay-Saint-Laurent Marine Park, where you could see among others belugas, seals and even, a little further, whales.Make sure to keep the regulatory distances under penalty of fairly salty fines.

On the southern shore, the moorings are possible, but know that there is a strong current and that mooring is not possible in Grosse-Île in the Montmagny archipelago.

From Cap-à-l'AIGLE to Saguenay, water cools off and it is the whale route.At anchor, the winds are often light from the northeast sector in north-west, but beware of the laborer.In Port-au-Saumon des Roches block the entrance.In Port-aux-Quilles, you will be protected from the north-east winds to northwest.Just like in Tadoussac, the water goes up quickly and there are rocks near the surface of the water at low tide.

The landscapes are worth the detour to the Saguenay, but entering and leaving the river is not always easy.You can wet in several places in the fjord, but it is not simple since the water is often deep, without forgetting the winds and the currents.

Bas-Saint-Laurent and Côte-Nord

You no longer have to worry about the overthrow of tidal currents.The current is stronger on the south shore than on the north shore.On the south coast, a counter-current allows you to go back more easily to upstream: follow the isobathe between 30 m and 100 m (100 to 300 ft).From Matane to Rimouski, the current is between four and five miles offshore and in Sainte-Anne-des-Monts at a thousand offshore.Elsewhere, you can navigate between 30 m to 100 m from the bank to find it.

Mitis.Photo credit: Pierre Lefebvre.

On the south shore, it is preferable to wet north of the island of Bic where the current is less strong.To cross towards the north shore, it is better to pass to the west of Biquette Island, to avoid the clapot.You will get a protection of northeast winds to the HA bay!Ha!and one from the southwest in Le Havre du Bic.

Mitis.Photo credit: Pierre Lefebvre.

L’anse du Mitis offre un mouillage très tranquille : mieux vaut viser le centre de la baie, puisqu’à gauche il y a un fond de sable et vers le phare, il y a un fond de roc.In July and August, you will attend a concert of Loups-Marins who court.Near the port of Matane, for a quick stop, wet east of the pier.If not, why not take advantage of the hospitality of the marina?

On the north shore, you can wet in the green bay and the haven Colombier;The northwest side protects you from the west and northwest winds.

Gaspé.Photo credit: Pierre Lefebvre.

The Gaspésie and the Islands-de-la-Madeleine

The currents present will be those of Labrador, to the north, or Gaspé, to the south.The latter will vary in force and in direction according to the tides.The current is strong in the Mont-Louis region.At night, catabatic winds can blow.In case of bad weather, it is preferable to navigate five miles from the ribs on the south shore, to avoid gale.In Cap Gaspé, there is current and the winds tend to turn.We must also be wary in front of Percé.

To wet, the mechins offer good protection and good hold, unless the winds blow from the northern and northeast sector.At Mont-Louis, prefer the left (looking towards the beach);Pay attention to lobster lockers.In Gaspé, the sandbank offers good protection except in strong winds from west or northwest.If so, prefer the hollow to the southwest.

In the Islands-de-Madeleine, you have to change the time and there are almost no tides.The prevailing winds are from the southwest or the west near the Gaspé coast.It is best to navigate when the winds do not exceed 20 nodes.If possible, a sailboat should go behind a cold front to benefit from the bearing winds.

Statue Trail, Fjord-du-Saguenay National Park.Photo credit: Joani Hotte-Jean.

Places to visit

Each stop has a particular attraction.It's up to you to discover it by questioning strollers on the quays or more simply by going to the tourist information kiosk.However, there are essentials.

1. Québec. Avec ses festivals, ses musées, ses lieux historiques, cette ville peut constituer, à elle seule, le but de votre voyage.
2. Cap Trinité. Si votre condition physique vous le permet, empruntez l’escalier qui mène à la statue de la Vierge. La vue sur le fjord du Saguenay vaut l’effort.
3. Gaspé. Son Festival Musique du Bout du Monde attire une foule de touristes en août. Ne manquez pas, à quelques kilomètres du centre-ville, le Site d’interprétation Micmac de Gespeg. Par une journée ensoleillée, lesguides vous feront découvrir les us et coutumes des premiers habitants de notre pays.
4. Le tour de l’île Bonaventure. Vous pouvez visiter la plus grande colonie de fous de Bassan accessible aux humains. Par contre, vous devrez prendre une navette ou un taxi pour vous rendre à Percé, car il n’y a aucune marina.

Pot-à-l'Eau-de-Vie Island.Photo credit: Pierre Lefebvre.

The most beautiful moorings

1. L’archipel des îles de Sorel. Le calme et la beauté sauvage permettent un repos bienvenu avant d’entreprendre la grande aventure sur le fleuve.
2. L’embouchure de la rivière Batiscan. Vous offre un des endroits les plus sécuritaires, peu importe la météo, pour passer une nuit calme.
3. Pot-à-l'Eau-de-Vie Island, en face de Rivière-du-Loup. Situé en plein milieu du parc marin du Saint-Laurent, ce mouillage, plus facile à prononcer sous son vocable anglais de «Brandy Pot», vous donne la possibilité, avec un peu de chance, de rencontrer vos premiers bélugas.
4. L’anse du Petit-Métis. Vous protégera des vents du sud-ouest, vous laissant dormir plusieurs nuits seuls, entourés d’une colonie de loups marins. Durant sa nuit la plus achalandée qu’il y a passée, Moonstone II n’avait que deux voisins.
5. La baie de Gaspé. Après avoir rencontré des phoques et, avec un peu de chance, quelques baleines, plusieurs endroits attendent votre ancre. Surtout, l’eau plus chaude vous permet enfin une baignade autour du bateau.

A seal.Photo credit: Pierre Lefebvre.

Marinas where you have to stop

All the marinas deserve to be stopped at least once.Impossible to choose which one is worth the detour.Each has its own charm and offers unforgettable discovery and encounters.Here are some places to put in your agenda.

1. Lévis. La vue du cap Diamant, la nuit, compense largement l’obligation de prendre le traversier pour se rendre dans la capitale.
2. Bergeronnes. Sa position, à l’extérieur de l’embouchure du Saguenay, permet des départs plus faciles autant vers l’amont que vers l’aval. Par une nuit calme, le souffle des baleines s’entend du quai fédéral.
3. Matane. L’accueil qui vous attend compense pour la réputation, surfaite, d’accès difficile à marée basse. Un simple appel par VHF permettra au préposé de vous indiquer à quel moment vous pouvez entrer.
4. Petite-River-Madeleine. Bel exemple qui prouve que l’arrêt inoubliable ne dépend pas de la grandeur des installations.

River-Madeleine.Photo credit: Pierre Lefebvre.

Rafale tips

- The error to avoid: scare you.Do not try, at all costs, to achieve the goal you set at the start.If, one morning, one of the members of the crew does not feel ready to leave: stay there.For example, during his first a week trip to the river, Pierre Lefebvre intended to go from Boucherville to Quebec.The adventure ended pleasantly in ... Sorel.

- Do you want to visit the Maritimes?Speaking English is an asset.On the water, if you have a problem, the coastal guard speaks in French.

-You can see marine mammals from Saint-Siméon or Kamouraska, and more, from Tadoussac;It is recommended to operate your engine or to use a echrosurer to avoid any problem.Do not forget to keep a minimum distance of 100 meters, or even 200 meters depending on the place, with this type of animal.

-From Saint-Jean-Port-Joli, you will not meet almost no more boaters.You will therefore have to be independent from this moment.The people of the Coast Guard remain your guardian angels.

– Navigation de nuit devrait être facile, sauf dans les grands ports de Montréal, Trois-Rivières et Québec.Please note, buoys are not always with lights.

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Merci à l’École de navigation de plaisance de la Société de sauvetage de m’avoir permis d’assister gracieusement à la formation Navigation sur le Saint-Laurent.Professor Pierre Lefebvre also gives maintenance courses, tips and tricks, far from everything, wintering a sailboat, radiotelephonievhf/asn and reading of marine cards̶papier and electronics.Consult the www.course.com to consult the course schedule.

Who is Pierre Lefebvre?

Pierre Lefebvre has been practicing sailing for over 45 years.He crisscrossed the Niagara river in the Madeleine Islands, for over 25 years, for a total of several thousand nautical miles.

À son retour d’une année sabbatique, en 2000, il déplace le port d’attache de son voilier Moonstone II, de la région de Montréal vers la région de Québec.In 2005, with his wife Lucette Provost, he left Canada for a seven -year trip which will lead him from the Atlantic coast of Europe, in Buenos Aires, Argentina in Argentina.He will return to Quebec after a visit to the Caribbean Sea, to Panama. Habitué aux grands horizons, il déménage le port d’attache de Moonstone II à Matane, puis finalement à Gaspé.

Like any browser, he no longer counts the anecdotes, fortunately without serious consequences, which arrived at him.On the other hand, during the two days of his course, he uses them to allow you to navigate, in complete safety, without making the same mistakes.By recalling the moments of ecstasy he has experienced, he hopes to communicate his love for our beautiful and grandiose river St. Lawrence.You can visit its website at https: // PierreDelune2.com!

Do you want to know more about the St. Lawrence?Read the article Le Majesité Saint-Laurent published in the Magazine Spring 2020.

By Joani HOTTE-JEAN

In collaboration with Pierre Lefebvre

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Five anecdotes

François Meyer, Atlas Ocean Racing.

Maxime Grimard, skipper and co -founder of the Atlas sailing team, performs the Quebec - Halifax journey several times a year for four years and the anecdotes are numerous.

1) Having arrived in Canada by sea in 2014 and not by plane, each time it stops in Rivière-au-Renard for a stopover or that he arrives in Quebec at Night, he rethinks when he arrived with Georges Leblanc afterHaving carried out a very eventful crossing of the Atlantic and its feeling of mission accomplished by moving the sailboat at the external quay of the Marina of the Old Port.

2) The stops in Rivière-au-Renard are full of good memories too: very hot showers and poutines after a very cold navigation or extraordinary meetings, like the mango leaving for an arctic expedition, or the Arkema team with their multi50 comingPut yourself on the shoulder on their VO60, time to let a gust of windshore.

Eddy Lowinski, Atlas Ocean Racing.

3) The only times of his life where he has seen northern lights are off the Gaspésie, at the end of the season, near the island of Anticosti.A breathtaking magical spectacle in the middle of the night.

4) He frequently met belugas to Tadoussac, then whales as he approached the Gaspésie.They are beautiful from afar, but you have to be wary of it as plague, because a collision would be fraught with consequences for the crew and the sailboat ... just like them!

5) Taking the time along the river, with the teammates, to make good foods that comfort is always a pleasant moment, which generally marks the start or end of a season in Quebec for them, afteror before leaving for Halifax and the Caribbean.

*Cet article a été publié dans le magazine numérique Automne 2020 de Quebec Yachting.Subscribe, it's free!